Join me as I review McCall’s M7885 and the @AngelaCostumery pattern, diving into the construction of the bodice. From lining and boning channels to modifying the pattern for a perfect fit, this tutorial will guide you through an advanced sewing project. I share tips, challenges, and modifications that made this dress come together beautifully. Don’t forget to like and subscribe for the final reveal! ✨
(photos at the bottom!)
Stitching, Struggles, and Satin: A Love Letter to the McCall’s M7885 Pattern
Sewing is an adventure. Sometimes it’s a delightful, stress-free jaunt through a field of neatly stitched seams. Other times, it’s a grueling uphill battle against uncooperative fabric, disappearing ink, and a cat who refuses to respect your workspace. Today, I’m here to regale you with my journey through McCall’s M7885, an Angela Clayton pattern that tested my patience, challenged my skills, and ultimately, left me with a bodice worthy of a fairytale.
Lining: Twice the Work, Twice the Fun (Sort Of)
The process starts with the lining—two whole layers of it. This means the boning channels won’t be visible on the outside of the garment. It’s period-accurate, and creates a really nice finish. I traced the pattern pieces onto regular paper first because, as any seasoned sewist knows, tissue paper is about as durable as a wet paper towel. The lining consists of five pieces: two back panels, two side panels, and a front. Sewing them together was relatively straightforward, the curves requred a bit of finesse on the lining fabric, but the pieces went together easily on the fashion fabric. Some fabrics just like to be difficult, and the poly China Silk I used for the lining really isn’t know for being easy or fun to sew on.
Stitch in the Ditch: A Slow but Necessary Evil
Once the lining was assembled, I had to attach both layers together. Cue the slow-motion horror scene that is stitching in the ditch. This technique requires precision, patience, and possibly a minor sacrifice to the sewing gods. It took ages, but I took my time, pinned like my life depended on it, and managed to keep everything aligned. I’m actully pretty happy with how well everything aligned. I’ve recently gotten pretty into corsetry for a different project, and the stiching in the ditch I have to do for those is a LOT harder. I’m not sure what makes it more difficult, but it certainly IS more difficult.
Boning Up on Structure
This pattern calls for boning, and while I could have gone the easy route with plastic, I opted for spiral steel for a couple of reasons. First, the plastic boning tends to be curved. You can iron out the curves easily enough, but it has a bit of memory, and when the heat of your body is against the boning, that curve slowly comes back. And that curve boking into your tummy all night can be VERY uncomfortable, and it can make your garment look really bad. Spiral steel is actually more confortable when worn as well. Cutting and capping the boning was an adventure in itself. I used vice grips, because who needs specialized tools when you have sheer willpower and brute force? Once installed, though, I was obsessed. Those crisp, structured channels were chef’s kiss perfection. Halfway through I bought a different tool to cut the boning – the wire cutters I was using before were terrible. Whatever I’m using now is incredible. Actually it was my ex-husband who told me what to use, so go him.
The Sleeve Saga
Ah, the sleeves. If patience is a virtue, I should be sainted for surviving this step. Each sleeve took a solid 90 minutes to construct. That’s a whole movie. I have seen other pattern revoews where they left the sleeves off, and I get why. But I love them. They add that historic, princess-like drama that makes this piece truly special. Plus, French seams on the inside? No raw edges? Perfection. I am using a heaavily modified version of this bodice for another pattern, and I WILL be leaving the sleeves off, but hoestly, I really liked the sleeves on this gown.
A Modesty Panel Controversy
Apparently, modesty panels in corset-back dresses are a divisive topic. Who knew? I once posted about them and was met with an internet storm of opinions. Well, joke’s on the haters because this official pattern includes one. Angela Clayton herself deemed it necessary. Vindication has never looked so good. Honestly mot of the cruel comments were about my body, and how if I wasn’t a chubby loser, I wouldn’t need a modesty pannel or underlay. but uh…yeah you do. So there.
The Final Touches
Hand-stitched eyelets? Check. Ribbon stolen from a previous corset? Absolutely. The result? A stunning, structured, slightly shiny masterpiece. Sure, my hands are sore, my cat is still mad at me for moving her off my fabric, and I may have questioned my life choices a few times—but I wouldn’t trade this experience for anything.
Sewing isn’t just a hobby; it’s an adventure filled with unexpected hurdles, tiny victories, and the joy of seeing a pile of fabric transform into something magical. And sometimes, that magic involves a very stiff satin ruffle and a chopstick standing in for an awl. But hey, that’s just part of the charm.
